Thursday, May 28, 2009

How Long Can Sperm Live In Creamy Mu

6 5 (malibu, santa cruz)

goodbye yosemite! malibu hello!



malibu and santa cruz are for just about the surfer, which are for the climbers yosemite or Siurana.
beads can such a small surf road trip to the surf culture of course not be affected by the fact that it has the wrong set of wheels.
we have abruptly risen this nifty mean of transport





nee is, of course nurn joke. is effectively the cart JEFF DIVINE that I am PLEASURE POINT , santa cruz met. of course again without knowing with whom I speak composition surf culture since it is precisely ...
I was still very nice that he wanted to direct a board for me workability.

during malibu obviously it lives that live there, the celebrities (in fact I have in starbucks the neighbors of Thomas Gottschalk know ...), lives santa cruz from its surf and skateboard culture. the skateboard is here the normal means of transportation (except mountain bikes with solexmotor) and for any auto kuckt out back, a surfboard.

to two spots, we had a nice, relaxing day without crowds. of course also because it is very small in the moment (3-4 feet) and we the working hours of other people surf.
which means that lots of grandpa in the water, where you can wonder at zukucken ultrarelaxten HANG TEN .
for more sight seeing aspects of care the animals. Here you feel like in aquazoo: any waterfowl are constantly around you, pelikanschwaerme come low over a small and funny as the seal and active interest in their black people in the suits, which confused him even to look similar.
white only the main attraction, the great, has been found yet. and that's good so ...

turns unfortunately the swell just to northwest and it is time to get back into the car and drive north a bit further direction, to San Francisco.
LINDA MAR is currently as well.
full circle to ...

Sunday, May 24, 2009

Rc Helicopter Spinning Circles Two Main Rotor

california 4 (astroman)



and still a classic! I was excited when a route over the nose, it is Astroman. maybe it's the name of the reputation or simply the promise of continued difficult climb, which was the stimulus.
the reputation of the route provided enough to cancel any event for any climbing partner. and a belay bunny, the hinterherjuggt / the only I had not had in turn particularly motivated.

in Noémie from the Welsh, but I found the perfect climbing partner.
we found ourselves schonam entry under the next day and waited for the leaves the sun, the ENDURO CORNER (see picture).
the first meters are simple and do a corner directly under the. I sorted my gear arrived and after a pause concentration I started going.
and ENDURO CORNER is not called like this: 40 meters, clamp, lift it and layback. only interrupted by a few grid points.
this is the climb is not so much on the poor, but more on the legs.
was resting spot close to a good quality then first circuit.
my foot slipped off a small ledge and .... a wide departure and a long drawn NOOOOOOOO I passed by my on-sight.

similarly wide then a couple of rope elongation: the Harding Slot. Perhaps the most famous of these rope elongation valley special demands on the imagination of a climber.
what one has to understand that is under the mysterious CHICKEN WING DYNO, is a natural course of the. to describe the movement with which one reinwuergt in these flarenden down chimney, would in any case is beyond the frame.
here I had made the on-sight.
but after a hard fight me spit the thing head over again.
fuck you, warren hard-on!



the 2nd experiment succeeded.
next test piece: the Changing CORNERS. a mantle around the edge here is the problem. and here it was then when I first 'take' said (shame on me!).
camalot of 0.4 was not optimal and that was enough for me to get me to steal the flow. It would have
ausgreicht, set the right foot to a higher composition of flake to achieve a better placement ...



about it is the climbing easier again. but what was waiting on us was the final rope elongation, which is famous for its bad hedge. half standing out piton and two copper heads these last rope elongation.
a pity that it now quickly dunnkel was.
as Noémie was reached, it was stockduster. So I packed my
head lamp. hangs me a few things on the belt and klettete going on.
the first part was good as a fist and layback crack. then it will face climbing, not even in the dark was all too hard. I found a good slot and a good nut placement behind the expanding flake. not enough to fall onto a ledge to make it impossible, but enough for the mind to the last meter in the vertical railing with enough security to pay for the head.
I reached the tree, from which I nachsicherte from Noémie. she climbed while remaining completely in the light of day. we were left with only a head lamp los ...

the descent of the WASHINGTON COLUMN capitan is not easier than the el. after we becoming less light in my head lamp (note to self: next time do not buy the cheap batteries ...) were eventually landed in the bushes, we found the path back to a beautiful fireplace bivouac under a boulder, we had inklusive.leider no lighter.

We put our ropes in donut under the boulder and made ourselves as comfortable, it was just.
with only one wearing tshirt and wind shirt however, it is very cold at night.
availed so cuddle closely in order to be able to sleep at least to some extent. I am reminded of Peru, where I tried one night arm in arm with michael, to sleep.
in situations such as you snuggle even with his evil landlord or similar unpleasant people.

single pair then the next day and pull ups liegestuetze made and off we went down the gully. small bubbling wasserlauefe were a welcome breakfast for the parched throats.

since we had our reward QClick pizza have to do without, we allowed things to get a huge breakfast in the lodge. the rest of the day ended on the El Cap meadows with sleep lying around, eating, beer drinking, lying around reading, sleeping ,.......



Wednesday, May 20, 2009

Dreams About A Nipple Ring

california 3 (separate reality)


still a classic: the SEPARATE REALITY above the COOKIE CLIFF.
spontaneously we (the Belgians Klaas and Me (yes, the real name!), That we are on the road since San Francisco and I) decided to leave the lodge fahrstuhlmusikdudelige athmosphere and do something action.
would have it the day can be indistinguishable from the other reality: it was warm and humid, the storm was forecast to dip to 20%.
who only held the little finger in the air-conditioned lodge, knew better: It's coming!
made nevertheless we stretched away to the tunnel and parked in front soon, from which a steep path leads from the roof of the route. a static rope leads down to the entrance.
everything is steep. only half a meter from the edge of the COOKIE separates a CLIFF. about it steep slabs on which they should not slip. the momentum would be a straight to start carrying the roouten the cookie ...
who knows flash to my relationship will understand how nervous I was when I was in the nascent storm on the onsight prepared.
concentrated, but a little erratic, I go climbing. Once the roof angle to put the nervousness, as expected. for that I was already from the few meters in the sultry air set a little inflated.
the first try in the terminal roof confirmed my guess: the conditions could not be worse. terminals could only merciless here now to help. So all the energy going on and koerperspannung!
helped me the experience of roof-like route MA DALTON and LEGOLAND I had a 3-week vacation granite climbed on-sight.
be just before the roof edge of the hand and terminals is less strenuous and I was now being pumped full.
I did not think much about it when I saw the plan I had made of the route did in the ankucken been realized. So Hepp, hand, right out of the terminal horn at the little that is left over from the previous year broken dandruff left.
I missed by only a centimeter put the good. seconds I paused, a hand still clamped in the crack, the other flat on the Launch horn along with the good before I slipped and landed softly in the rope.
with a loud FUCK! I let out my frustration.
sought after, klaas and route me through. unfortunately without success. klaas paid dearly, since this is his first climbing trip was pulled into an area and he had problems yet to find the good clamping positions.
me however was already a step further. but also for him ended the roof edge of travel before the flutschigen almost hand clamp.
was then restored it to me and I went for the second experiment.
the storm was already come closer and I knew it would be the last attempt.
themselves with more confidence than before I start climbing. I too was now warmed already. I felt that there is now a rock against my energy reserves was. so I gave gas!
the hand terminals against the roof edge, I stuck now vehemently than before.
a short rest at a good handjam and I went through the motion, which had previously klaas ausgebouldert: right hand on a small kaentchen, left foot in the crack and the shoulder screw to the left and the left horn with the good. Then come the feet can and in a motion with the right finger in the crack, which leads to the roof edge.
now just swinging feet over the edge and that's it!
rappelled uebergluecklich I am again at the static rope.

now the storm was really close!
rappelled me in itself, as the wind increased leaves and branches and blew the roof. for what an atmosphere for a rotpunktversuch!
very calmly he climbed to the roof edge. The conditions were now suddenly really well during the zunmahm wind, lightning flashed and in night Near the thunder and wind made an agreement impossible.
we fired him from all broke while he was on the roof edge briefly concentrated: right hand on the little ledge .... left foot .... shit! The left foot was too far away from his body! He was allowed to come the feet. I just thought he would make a ueberkruezdynamo to the horn. but there was the power to end.
began again lowered to the plate it to rain buckets and even as off. well that we had a roof over your head! only patched the crack in the roof would have to be times .... but that's another story.

Monday, May 18, 2009

Alani Lollipop Jan Mclean

california 2 (el capitan)



we did it! 4 days, we have used to climb the NOSE. eingentlich it should be third but a lot of traffic in the route and our initial inexperience with the nachschlepperei (hauling) of the haul bag left us but then slow down. what was so much care, however, because actually it's all also about a good time to have in the wall. and we had!
speed record as of 2:38 Huberbuam of whether the stresses and strains can be a marvel then really.

it reads our work distribution as the business card of the THREE?

free climbing and bouldering: jugger marc
, haul and techno: armin



were to distribute the rope elongation also: armin was for the roof great and the changing corners in charge, I for the stoveleg cracks (of recent events renamed stuffleg cracks) and the pancake flake, the bolt texas flake (no chicken!) and really anything else that could be freely climb just fine.





and the nose is a free-climbing route! Unfortunately, like so much here in the valley only because of the many pin scars (holes that are left when you over years of time pure iron hook and again) rausdengelt

than in the early evening we reached the summit, it was already clear that the descent to the next and so on 5th tag was postponed.



this means the easiest descent at least 4 hours over steep descents towed flat and rough terrain, 4 and gebashe by gullies and forests.



reached the bottom we had to pick up the car from the parking lot at the entrance. during armin is prepared to resume talks I stayed with our gear. fortunately it was not long before I became a Mexican family picnic to end and pollo tortilla and invited homemade salsa. also got armin nor from his share.



with another 2 uebriggebliebenen pollo original pieces, we finally made our way to the camp. We passed a climber, the last of his just below the road had collapsed on the haul bag. It was Ueli Steck, who just had his wife with the route GOLDEN GATE mastered completely on-sight. We handed him the chicken out of the car and drove on. one can imagine the eyes, which makes one who has thought during the entire descent meat of nothing but a beautiful piece of ...

arminhelbach.de more pictures of us on and elcapreport.com (the guys with the orange rope ...)

Sunday, May 10, 2009

Walkie Talkies For Paintball

California 1 Bridwell

finally blogging again! and calculated from the center of the universe. at least it is for the climber: the Yosemite Valley! nor the orientation is difficult here and the daily ranger-dodging can get up one morning not consecrated (for: at the maximum permit for an extension to seasonal days of generous 7, checked only one person the other is then Kwasi illegal and must above all. flee 'pinky'. ranger women take accurate ...).

but for now some pictures from san francisco, where we only eligible hostel GREEN TORTOISE are seen. of residence is one here by various activities such as beer bong contests masturbation contests and sweetened. Unfortunately we had at the time of the second-mentioned no time, but were probably on the way to get our poop tube .



san francisco is at all worth the trip. who as a child or young adult has seen the streets of San Francisco who knows what'll find in there: streets, inviting, and finally to heat as time detective Lt. down. mike stone.



who thinks in california not directly to surf, who as a child never heard the beach boys or is extremely afraid of water. of course I also have the opportunity already used and I went swimming with ironing board. yet I had monsterglueck! super cute swell to a very relaxing spot called LINDA MAR. An adjacent board the other equipment to lend to us directly on the spot in the surf shop NOR CAL .
the tag provided in a light drizzle and sunshine clean glassy waves, head high to overhead and I managed some very nice lefts and rights and I was with a word: STOKED!
thank pacific!










now, after a hearty breakfast in the lodge yosemite it tickles me, but something in the fingers for a late start on BIG STONE and a small test run for the NOSE on tuesday.

peace!