Wednesday, May 20, 2009

Dreams About A Nipple Ring

california 3 (separate reality)


still a classic: the SEPARATE REALITY above the COOKIE CLIFF.
spontaneously we (the Belgians Klaas and Me (yes, the real name!), That we are on the road since San Francisco and I) decided to leave the lodge fahrstuhlmusikdudelige athmosphere and do something action.
would have it the day can be indistinguishable from the other reality: it was warm and humid, the storm was forecast to dip to 20%.
who only held the little finger in the air-conditioned lodge, knew better: It's coming!
made nevertheless we stretched away to the tunnel and parked in front soon, from which a steep path leads from the roof of the route. a static rope leads down to the entrance.
everything is steep. only half a meter from the edge of the COOKIE separates a CLIFF. about it steep slabs on which they should not slip. the momentum would be a straight to start carrying the roouten the cookie ...
who knows flash to my relationship will understand how nervous I was when I was in the nascent storm on the onsight prepared.
concentrated, but a little erratic, I go climbing. Once the roof angle to put the nervousness, as expected. for that I was already from the few meters in the sultry air set a little inflated.
the first try in the terminal roof confirmed my guess: the conditions could not be worse. terminals could only merciless here now to help. So all the energy going on and koerperspannung!
helped me the experience of roof-like route MA DALTON and LEGOLAND I had a 3-week vacation granite climbed on-sight.
be just before the roof edge of the hand and terminals is less strenuous and I was now being pumped full.
I did not think much about it when I saw the plan I had made of the route did in the ankucken been realized. So Hepp, hand, right out of the terminal horn at the little that is left over from the previous year broken dandruff left.
I missed by only a centimeter put the good. seconds I paused, a hand still clamped in the crack, the other flat on the Launch horn along with the good before I slipped and landed softly in the rope.
with a loud FUCK! I let out my frustration.
sought after, klaas and route me through. unfortunately without success. klaas paid dearly, since this is his first climbing trip was pulled into an area and he had problems yet to find the good clamping positions.
me however was already a step further. but also for him ended the roof edge of travel before the flutschigen almost hand clamp.
was then restored it to me and I went for the second experiment.
the storm was already come closer and I knew it would be the last attempt.
themselves with more confidence than before I start climbing. I too was now warmed already. I felt that there is now a rock against my energy reserves was. so I gave gas!
the hand terminals against the roof edge, I stuck now vehemently than before.
a short rest at a good handjam and I went through the motion, which had previously klaas ausgebouldert: right hand on a small kaentchen, left foot in the crack and the shoulder screw to the left and the left horn with the good. Then come the feet can and in a motion with the right finger in the crack, which leads to the roof edge.
now just swinging feet over the edge and that's it!
rappelled uebergluecklich I am again at the static rope.

now the storm was really close!
rappelled me in itself, as the wind increased leaves and branches and blew the roof. for what an atmosphere for a rotpunktversuch!
very calmly he climbed to the roof edge. The conditions were now suddenly really well during the zunmahm wind, lightning flashed and in night Near the thunder and wind made an agreement impossible.
we fired him from all broke while he was on the roof edge briefly concentrated: right hand on the little ledge .... left foot .... shit! The left foot was too far away from his body! He was allowed to come the feet. I just thought he would make a ueberkruezdynamo to the horn. but there was the power to end.
began again lowered to the plate it to rain buckets and even as off. well that we had a roof over your head! only patched the crack in the roof would have to be times .... but that's another story.

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