and still a classic! I was excited when a route over the nose, it is Astroman. maybe it's the name of the reputation or simply the promise of continued difficult climb, which was the stimulus.
the reputation of the route provided enough to cancel any event for any climbing partner. and a belay bunny, the hinterherjuggt / the only I had not had in turn particularly motivated.
in Noémie from the Welsh, but I found the perfect climbing partner.
we found ourselves schonam entry under the next day and waited for the leaves the sun, the ENDURO CORNER (see picture).
the first meters are simple and do a corner directly under the. I sorted my gear arrived and after a pause concentration I started going.
and ENDURO CORNER is not called like this: 40 meters, clamp, lift it and layback. only interrupted by a few grid points.
this is the climb is not so much on the poor, but more on the legs.
was resting spot close to a good quality then first circuit.
my foot slipped off a small ledge and .... a wide departure and a long drawn NOOOOOOOO I passed by my on-sight.
similarly wide then a couple of rope elongation: the Harding Slot. Perhaps the most famous of these rope elongation valley special demands on the imagination of a climber.
what one has to understand that is under the mysterious CHICKEN WING DYNO, is a natural course of the. to describe the movement with which one reinwuergt in these flarenden down chimney, would in any case is beyond the frame.
here I had made the on-sight.
but after a hard fight me spit the thing head over again.
fuck you, warren hard-on!
the 2nd experiment succeeded.
next test piece: the Changing CORNERS. a mantle around the edge here is the problem. and here it was then when I first 'take' said (shame on me!).
camalot of 0.4 was not optimal and that was enough for me to get me to steal the flow. It would have
ausgreicht, set the right foot to a higher composition of flake to achieve a better placement ...
about it is the climbing easier again. but what was waiting on us was the final rope elongation, which is famous for its bad hedge. half standing out piton and two copper heads these last rope elongation.
a pity that it now quickly dunnkel was.
as Noémie was reached, it was stockduster. So I packed my
head lamp. hangs me a few things on the belt and klettete going on.
the first part was good as a fist and layback crack. then it will face climbing, not even in the dark was all too hard. I found a good slot and a good nut placement behind the expanding flake. not enough to fall onto a ledge to make it impossible, but enough for the mind to the last meter in the vertical railing with enough security to pay for the head.
I reached the tree, from which I nachsicherte from Noémie. she climbed while remaining completely in the light of day. we were left with only a head lamp los ...
the descent of the WASHINGTON COLUMN capitan is not easier than the el. after we becoming less light in my head lamp (note to self: next time do not buy the cheap batteries ...) were eventually landed in the bushes, we found the path back to a beautiful fireplace bivouac under a boulder, we had inklusive.leider no lighter.
We put our ropes in donut under the boulder and made ourselves as comfortable, it was just.
with only one wearing tshirt and wind shirt however, it is very cold at night.
availed so cuddle closely in order to be able to sleep at least to some extent. I am reminded of Peru, where I tried one night arm in arm with michael, to sleep.
in situations such as you snuggle even with his evil landlord or similar unpleasant people.
single pair then the next day and pull ups liegestuetze made and off we went down the gully. small bubbling wasserlauefe were a welcome breakfast for the parched throats.
since we had our reward QClick pizza have to do without, we allowed things to get a huge breakfast in the lodge. the rest of the day ended on the El Cap meadows with sleep lying around, eating, beer drinking, lying around reading, sleeping ,.......
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